A/W’15: Origins

Back to Blocks

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Blocks are the primary shapes from which patterns are drawn. I like to describe them as the conceptual foundations of a garment, like meta patterns. They’re also beautiful in their own stark way, and like the entirety of men’s fashion have changed little since the late 1800s.

A definite aim of saccaggi is to re-think these blocks, for which the first step is of course to fully understand them. This has provided me with a great amount of fun for the past year, and I fully intend to continue this project till the day I die!

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(Aldrich Suit Block)

My Autumn/Winter 2015 ‘collection’ is again limited to a single item, this time a shirt, as my continued success in the bespoke business continues to steal time from my own creative endeavors. Such is capitalism life.

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Looking at the shirt block (I use one from the 80s) the first thing to notice is just how much our conception of the body determines the shape of the piece. We think of the front and back of the body, and by uncanny co-incidence have a front and back part of the block, even though there’s no structural reason for this to be so.

The blocks also tend towards blockishness, which does make them easier to work with, but also tends to influence the pattern more than one would like.

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These are all topics to be addressed over time as I tackle the important life goal of taking over the fashion industry! For now, I’ll simply tempt you with a sketch of this season’s shirt.

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I have precious little time to spend on this beauty, so will be doing a limited run. Sign up here to know when it’s available, and watch this space.

See the next post about the collection here

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