Until recently the Ochre Stone excavated from Blombos cave in South Africa was the oldest known art work, dating back some 100 000 – 70 000 years and corroborating the theory that both physically and culturally modern humans evolved in southern Africa. Ochre is also thought to have been the first form of body decoration, used by early humans as a sun block in the harsh South African climate. It’s not difficult to imagine the jump between quotidian and cosmetic uses, and the pigment is still used today in traditional ceremonies.
This season’s collection began with the desire to return to, and wholly rethink, some of the basic tenets of men’s fashion. Which in turn lead me down a dark road of considering the very basics of clothing in the first place .
It was while thinking about this very first step towards our modern fashion industry that I considered some fundamentals of how men’s fashion is formulated. I began the process by rethinking the shirt block, which now allows for a more natural fit on the body, while permitting fluid movements between different parts of the garment [read post here].
I then turned my attention to that most uncomfortable staple of men’s formal wear: the collar [read it here]. Spending nearly two months reworking this portion of the shirt, I think you’ll agree the new shirt collar is nothing but revolutionary.
With the stand section cut into the garment, the collar sits more comfortably on the shoulders, and accommodates the curve of the neck in a more natural fashion.
Besides the sheer fabulousness of the Orche Shirt, there are three innovations to which I must draw your FULL attention.
First, the underarm and side seam – , as well as the cuff/hem intersection seam – allowances have been increased to 2cm. These are usually between 0.5cm and 1cm. I realize this won’t mean much to most of you but trust me; if you ever need this shirt adjusted your tailor is going to LOVE me.
Second the darts on the back panel have been done in what I’m choosing to call the saccaggi method. While still giving the shirt a beautifully tailored look, these open darts allow more movement in the upper body than is generally allowed with such a close fitting tailor.
And third of course, I can’t help but be in love with the new (yes it’s called the saccaggi) collar. In its most conventional form the collar looks nothing short of dead regular, while sitting more comfortably on the neck due to the new cut. From there on you have no less than SEVEN different styles in which you can tie your collar. Please close your mouths, they don’t call me Benji the most talented tailor ever of all time for no reason.
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And definitely check out what fashionable things are on sale in our shop.
And of course I would never DREAM of holding back on any of the beauty I experience in the studio every day of my life (okay fine, every other day when I manage to look up from my sewing machines for a fleeting second). Herewith some additional beautiful images taken during the shoot.
Model: Jan Haasbroek from Steele Models (www.steelemodels.com)
Photography, Image Editing and General Awesomness: Christiaan Naudé
Background Image credit: Law Pinto
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